Galluping along

Her perspective:

When we checked out of our hotel this morning the temperature was a brisk 19 degrees. But the sun was shining!

We drove down the street to take pictures of murals celebrating Route 66. Then we stopped at the (World Famous) Tee Pee Curio Shop. What better place to buy junk? And I do love to help local economies when we travel!

The store was built in the 1940’s. It was originally a gas station, curio shop and grocery store. We spent about a half hour talking about life and a variety of subjects with the owner. He moved there to run the family owned store for a year after being laid off in the corporate world. After one year in New Mexico there was a family vote and a decision was made not to go back to Southern California. Twenty five years later he is still at the Tee Pee Curio Shop. He loves talking to the people he meets but times are very hard in this city that apparently has seen its heyday come and go. The gas station that was part of the store was taken out when the road expanded. The grocery store is no longer there. He hopes to have two more years before he makes a decision on what to do with this leftover Route 66 relic.

As we walked out, I was reminded of a conversation we had in Cape Town at the Pan African mall…..A woman we had been talking too said, ‘see we are all just people.’ How true! Everyone has a story to tell.

I-40 was filled with billboards as we headed west. The Flying C was the first set of signs to catch our eye. When we stopped (and who wouldn’t with all they had to offer) they told us there were 42 signs in all. Amazing! But, sadly, nothing I had to have. Onward.

Clines Corners was next up on our hit parade. Its billboards started well before the Flying C, slacked off a bit around the Flying C (why compete?) and picked up in earnest as we got closer. Again, everything you could possibly want and probably more (or less?). We had to stop. Clines Corners had a few things I needed to buy but more than that it had a café. And in the café, a jewel of a woman who waited on us. I believe her name was Miriam. She was from South Africa. Cape Town actually. Been in this country four years. Wow! There it was….the accent we loved. The South African way of saying ‘you’re welcome’……’pleasure’ (pronounced play-zure). And the lovely way she said ‘there’. Another person with a story. We were interested in why she wanted to come to our country. Is this still the land of opportunity? Her answers were a little complicated and very interesting. We thoroughly enjoyed our time with her and loved telling her a little about our experiences in South Africa.

Albuquerque at 2:15 p.m. was our next opportunity to bail & get on a plane. We kept driving.

In Milan we opted to take old Route 66. We took a detour through Thoreau where we got our first close up view of the beautiful mesas and cliffs. There is a lot of snow on the ground. It looks very icy and shiny. We saw a rainbow alongside the mesas that had taken on a pink cast. Very beautiful.

The next stop was Continental Divide. Very exciting - had to stop. Junk to see. Maybe some to buy. Actually, quick stop, a couple of pictures, nothing to buy. Onward to our final destination for the night – Gallup, New Mexico.

Didn’t go that far today. Maybe tomorrow. Maybe not. The scenery is beautiful, the people are interesting and well, we are just having a good time & enjoying it all!

His perspective

Not much of day distance wise, however an outstanding overall day. Our goal this morning was to get to Winslow tonight. We got as far as Gallup, a whopping 300 miles, in 7 or 8 hours.

We got a slow start out of Tucumcari today. Made several stops in Rte 66 to take pics

of murals and some old motels, most of which I think are

still in business. I found it interesting that many of the Tucumcari motels had “American owned” on their signs.

Next stop was the TePee (or TeePee, it’s spelled differently on the front of the shop) curio shop, opened in the late ‘40’s. We were the only customers. The guy who ran the place was about my age with a long white beard, and looked a classic throwback to the ‘60’s. Not sure if we bought anything, but we did end up having a great long discussion with him on a myriad of topics. We went from corporate America, to national healthcare, to the public option to the deterioration of Tucumcari. Fascinating conversation. Tucumcari peaked at about 14K residents, is now about 5k and dropping. The reasons he gave for the deterioration were I-40, the railroads no longer treating Tucumcari as a hub (I believe most of the railroads he mentioned no longer exist) and changes in long haul trucking practices. Along with their dependence on water from the Canadian River, which he said was being diverted upstream. So even the farmers are leaving.

Driving west, we saw endless billboards for the Flying C Ranch. This place had everything, and we had to stop. It was a truck stop. Don’t think we bought anything, but Wilson did come out for a photo op.

Next stop was Cline’s Corner. We were also tempted by a flurry of billboards, building up our anticipation of yet another place that had everything you could ever need. Nancy had also read they had good burgers, so we had to stop. I think we bought a piece of pottery and sat down to order lunch. Our waitress had an accent, and as I always do, I asked where she was from. We were thrilled to hear she was South Africa, and Cape Town at that! One of our favorite places. We talked Meriam’s ear off in between her waiting on customers. Why did she come to America, how did she ever end up in Clines Corners, NM…which is just a truck stop. How long has she been here, etc. etc. In a nutshell, America was the promised land. She had an agent, who got her employment here, initially in the Florida Keys, then Yosemite and for the last 2 years in Clines Corners. She and the rest of the staff live in trailers behind the store and gas pumps. And America is still the promised land. It was an absolute “pleazah!” talking to her!

After leaving Clines Corners, we knew Winslow was out as a destination tonight. We headed west. We drove through, or bypassed Albuquerque and made some diversions from 40 along the way to old 66. Milan, NM was one and Thoreau, NM another. Our Route 66 book said to get off 40 at Milan and take 66 west to the Continental Divide for some good sights of pink mesas and buttes, along with the now normal sight of abandoned motels and gas stations. There was a sign for a state park heading north. We took it and has some beautiful views of the mesas and snowy fields in the late afternoon light. I hope some of the pics came out.

And here we are in Gallup. Tomorrow? Not sure yet where tomorrow will take us. Maybe editing today’s 278 pix.

Today was a good example to me of how our travel has changed. Not sure if the change is a factor of old age, having more time to experience things or just a shift in the manner in which we travel. We have truly enjoyed not only seeing sights and natural wonders, but have also had wonderful experiences talking to people. From NZ, to Amsterdam, to South Africa to the Tee Pee in Tucumcari and Cline’s Corner, NM, the conversations have been some of the most memorable experiences. I like this new kind of travel, and am really enjoying our Mother Road Trip.

Today’s comments:

The Toaster gets atrocious mileage for a 4 banger with a 5 speed. I knew when I bought it wasn’t stellar, but the best we’re getting on the road is about 22.5mpg. I get 24 in town!

We haven’t seen one Burma Shave billboard.